My New Favorite Cocktail Has Grilled Banana In It
The flavors of a negroni meet bananas foster. Here’s how to make it at home.
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Trevor Clark
After a 14-hour trip from the mountains of Roanoke, Virginia to the shores of Maui, I was ready to sip tropical cocktails against the backdrop of a postcard-perfect sunset. I crossed the lobby at the Fairmont Kea Lani and headed for Pilina, its new cocktail bar and sushi lounge. Sunset views? Check. Reserved table? Check. Cocktails? Check. It quickly became clear that these were not your average tropical tipples. Cameron Hall, Pilina’s general manager, created a line-up of more than a dozen cocktails made with 90 percent local ingredients.
The cocktail that stole my heart and my palate was the ‘Āina, the Hawaiian word for “land.” The ‘Āina is a riff on a negroni, made with rum, Campari, sweet vermouth and a grilled banana oleo saccharum infused with vanilla and coffee beans. We’ll get to what, exactly, an oleo saccharum is in a bit, but in short, the cocktail tasted like a negroni meets bananas foster. Negronis are typically made with gin, but swapping in an aged rum perfectly balanced the herbal bitterness of the Campari. If you’ve never had a Negroni or think you don’t like it, this sweet-leaning riff will make you an instant fan. And if you already know and love Negronis, this version, bolstered by rich, toasted vanilla, earthy coffee and tropical fruit notes will make it your new go-to summer sipper, whether you’re lounging poolside or posted up by the campfire with a nightcap.
“A couple of really important plants in Hawaiian culture are sugar cane and bananas,” Hall explained. “I wanted to use those to create the ‘Āina and the reflections of the land, and the relationship that we have with the land when we’re here in Hawaii.”
To amplify banana flavor in the cocktail, Hall opted to make a banana oleo saccharum. Bartenders commonly make an oleo saccharum by infusing citrus peels in sugar to create intensely flavored citrusy syrup (and use every single part of the fruit). Hall grills whole bananas in their peels and then combines the still-warm fruit with demerara sugar, a vanilla bean and coffee beans, then lets it infuse for 48 hours. It’s easier to make at home than you think—the hardest part is waiting for the flavors to infuse and the syrup to form—and it’ll make you feel like a world-class mixologist at home. The syrup’s ample yield means you’ll have extra on hand for drizzling on scoops of vanilla ice cream and stacks of pancakes and waffles.
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Justin Alford
‘Āina (Grilled Banana Negroni)
Recipe adapted from Cameron Hall, General Manager at Pilina at Fairmont Kea Lani in Maui
Naturally, I’ve been making this cocktail since returning from Hawaii. Hall kindly shared his recipe with me, and here’s the version I’ve been making. Hall garnishes his gorgeous cocktail with a brûléed banana slice and banana leaf. If you’re feeling like a mixologist, go ahead and brûlée a banana slice by sprinkling one with sugar and placing it under the broiler until caramelized, 30 to 60 seconds (watch it closely so it doesn’t burn!). However, I’ve skipped the garnish and can attest it’s tasty without.
Cocktail
Yield: 1 cocktail
1 oz aged rum, such as Kuleana Rum Works Hōkūlei Aged Rum or Appleton Estate Rum 8 Year or 12 Year
½ oz Campari
½ oz sweet vermouth, such as Cinzano 1757
½ oz Grilled Banana Oleo Saccharum, recipe follows
- Chill a double old fashioned glass by adding ice to it or placing it in the freezer.
- Add the rum, Campari, sweet vermouth and grilled banana oleo saccharum to a mixing glass. Add ice to the mixing glass and stir until chilled but not over-diluted, about 20 seconds.
- Place a large format ice cube into the chilled old-fashioned glass.
- Strain the cocktail over the large ice cube and garnish, if desired.
Grilled Banana Oleo Saccharum
Yield: 1 to 1.5 cups
5 ripe bananas (but not overripe)
32 oz Demerara sugar (or any type of sugar, but preferably raw cane sugar or Demerara)
½ vanilla bean
20 coffee beans (Kona coffee beans or dark roast beans work well here)
1 tsp kosher salt
- Halve the bananas (with the skin on) and grill over high heat (on a grill or grill pan), flesh side down, until you get some grill lines, 3 to 4 minutes.
- Place the still-warm bananas in an airtight storage container and add the sugar, vanilla bean and coffee beans, then toss to combine. Allow the mixture to cool before you put the lid on.
- Leave the mixture at room temperature, undisturbed, for 48 hours.
- Add 1 cup of warm water to dissolve the remaining sugar, adding more as necessary, until you reach the consistency of sugar simple syrup.
- Strain the syrup into a glass jar or airtight container and refrigerate. It will keep for up to 1 week stored this way.
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